Goa, July, 2003
Welcome to Goa,
India. Specifically, Dona Paula. To find Dona Paula on a map, find Panaji
(AKA Panjim), the capital city of the state of Goa. Dona Paula is about
10 km southwest from Panjim. The picture above is the view to the southeast
from the balcony of our rented flat, which we call The Pink Palace. The
owner calls the building 'Villa Shamina'. It's the view we rented this place
for, not the interior décor... indeed, we spend long moments each
day just gazing at the water and the rain.
www.whitridge.org
This year the monsoons
have been heavier than average. Most Goans complain about the rainy season.
The daily routine is more of a hassle when you have to contend with such
large amounts of rain falling in, usually, short bursts, but sometimes for
extended hours. The mosquitos are more numerous, and so are colds & flus.
It's the 'cool' season here, which makes me wonder how I'll make it through
the hot season... but that's for later. Trudy Ann and I, and some Goans enjoy
the rains. Things are scrubbed by the rain, the countryside is unbelievably
green, the rice fields are planted and the temperatures are relatively cool.
Some people (who have some money) from countries with very little rain come
to Bombay & Goa just to sit and watch the monsoons. As the rains pass
by our balcony the opposite shore will disappear completely (sometimes the
near shore too!).
We arrived in Goa on a Wednesday and priority number one was to get the boys set for school, which was already two weeks into the school year. On the list: 1) pay Trevor's enrollment fee and 'donation', which was mandatory?!?; 2) purchase fabric and find a tailor to make their school uniforms, three sets each (don't they look sharp!); 3) purchase water bottles, tiffin (snack box), pencil box & books; 4) cover each book with plastic coated paper, my first assignment, which took two evenings. They started school on the following Monday. Rowan made a very fast transition, feeling very confident by day three. Trevor has taken more time to adjust, as the school environment is very different. He's made friends and now is getting along very well.
We arrived in Goa on a Wednesday and priority number one was to get the boys set for school, which was already two weeks into the school year. On the list: 1) pay Trevor's enrollment fee and 'donation', which was mandatory?!?; 2) purchase fabric and find a tailor to make their school uniforms, three sets each (don't they look sharp!); 3) purchase water bottles, tiffin (snack box), pencil box & books; 4) cover each book with plastic coated paper, my first assignment, which took two evenings. They started school on the following Monday. Rowan made a very fast transition, feeling very confident by day three. Trevor has taken more time to adjust, as the school environment is very different. He's made friends and now is getting along very well.
Goa was
celebrating the Feast of John the Baptist during our first weekend here.
We were invited to a party, not that Goans need an excuse for a party...
For this feast it is customary for any newlywed husband at the party to
be presented with a floral headgear, which he must wear, and later he is
'baptised' (or, 'thrown into the pool'). Others, not recently newlywed,
may later try on the hat for comic effect. Goa was occupied by the Portuguese
from the 1540's to the 1960's. Much Portuguese culture remains, like this
festival of 'San Joao'. It's been mixed with indiginous culture. The feast
comes on the Catholic calendar during the monsoons, and the water aspect
of baptism found a unique resonance in Goa.
One recent Sunday
we played tourists in our own neighborhood. Just around the corner, out
of view from our balcony, is the Dona Paula Jetty. It's the end of the
line for city buses and tour buses. On weekends merchants set up shop under
umbrellas to hawk their touristy wares. There's a nice observation pavillion
with good views (almost as good as our view!).
Goa is a popular tourist
destination year 'round for Indians. Honeymoon couples are common and easily
spotted. The newlywed wife is usually very colorfully dressed. Also, the
hindu women wear special sets of bangles on both arms for a period of
about 6 weeks, according to one newlywed couple we met at the Jetty. The
night before the wedding the bride's hands and feet are intricately decorated
with mehendi, a henna paste, which lasts 4 - 6 weeks before it fades. (Sorry,
it's hard to see it in the picture.)
One last picture:
I'm a little sketchy on the details about this one. What I know is that
this smoker is used in some houses on a daily basis, especialy during the
monsoons. The house is filled with a haze of this smoke. The smoke masks
the musty odors that tend to come with the constant humidity. It also discourages
mosquitos, ubiquitous during the rains. I don't know what they burn inside...
smells OK. I liked the picture, with the group of Chinese Magistrates overlooking
the operation.
That's it for now.
See you all again soon.